The term you sign up to
Resetting a loan with 22 years left back to 30 adds eight years of interest. Holding the term is worth more than most rate discounts on offer.
MortgageSMART™Home loan refinancing
There are two ways to refinance. Only one of them saves you money.
Move your three numbers below and see what a refinance really does to your repayment, your total interest and your mortgage end date.
Move the sliders above — set what you still owe and your results appear here.
The reset trap
Every refinance offer is built around three things that feel like wins: a lower rate, a lower repayment, and sometimes a few thousand dollars in cashback. None of them are bad. They just aren't the whole picture.
Tap each one to see what it can cost when the loan behind it is written back out to 30 years.
* Examples only, not an offer of finance. All three assume a $667,000 loan with 25 years left to run, monthly repayments, a constant rate and no extra repayments. The lower-rate example applies a 0.5% rate reduction with the loan rewritten over a fresh 30 years. The lower-repayment example holds the rate and stretches the term to 30 years. The cashback example compares sharp pricing against a rate 0.25% higher over the first 3 years, and ignores discharge, settlement and registration costs, which also come out of any cashback. Your own figures will differ.
Your reason
Refinancing isn't one decision — it's four different ones, and the right structure depends entirely on which one you're making. Pick the closest match.
Choose one
Lower repayment available
$206/mth
Same finish line, 0.5% sharper rate.
Interest saved keeping your repayment
$131,504
Over the life of the loan, not a 30-year reset.
What a reset costs instead
$218,298
Extra interest if the term goes back out to 30 years.
Based on a typical $667,000 loan with 25 years left at 6.44% p.a. — move the sliders above to use your own numbers. Estimates only, based on the figures shown — not an offer of finance.
A lower rate is the most common reason Australians refinance, and it is a good reason. Lenders price new business more sharply than existing loans, so borrowers who have not reviewed their mortgage in a few years are often paying well above what the same lender offers today. On a $600,000 loan, half a percent is roughly $250 a month of interest you are handing over for nothing.
The catch is what happens around the rate. A refinance is commonly written over a fresh 30-year term, so the repayment drops, the borrower feels better off, and the total interest bill goes up. A rate cut only becomes a saving if you keep the finish line where it was — or bring it forward.
Worth knowing
What we'd do first: We benchmark your current rate against what we can place today, then show the result both ways — repayment kept and repayment reset.
Credit cards, personal loans, car loans and buy-now-pay-later accounts are priced far above home loan rates — cards commonly sit near 20% p.a. Folding them into your mortgage replaces several expensive repayments with one cheaper one, and for most households it frees up meaningful cash flow immediately.
Done carelessly, consolidation is how a short-term debt becomes a 30-year debt: the repayment falls, the balance rides along at mortgage pace, and the total cost rises. Done deliberately, the freed-up cash flow is redirected straight back at the mortgage, which is where the years start disappearing. Same product, opposite outcome — the difference is the structure and the discipline built around it.
We model the consolidation, show the monthly surplus it creates, then apply that surplus to the mortgage so you can see the payoff date move.
If your property has grown in value and your balance has come down, the difference is equity you can often borrow against — usually to renovate, but also for a deposit on an investment property, to fund a business, or to deal with a tax debt at a mortgage rate instead of a penalty rate.
Renovating is the most common use: a kitchen, bathroom, extension or outdoor living area can lift the property's value and is generally cheaper to fund through the home than a personal loan or card. The question we work through is how much you can release without pushing into lender's mortgage insurance, and how to structure the release so it does not slow the rest of the plan down.
We estimate your usable equity from your balance and value, then show what releasing it does to your repayment and your timeline.
This is where refinancing gets interesting. Keep your repayment exactly where it is, drop the rate, and every extra dollar lands on the principal instead of the lender's interest. Nothing about your budget changes and years come off the loan.
From there, structure does the rest of the work: an offset account so your everyday balance reduces the interest you are charged, salary and surplus flowing through the right account, splits so extra repayments are visible, and a review each year to make sure the loan is still competitive. Individually these are small. Compounded across a mortgage, they are the difference between a 30-year loan and a considerably shorter one.
We show the finish line on your current loan against the finish line with a sharper rate and the same repayment.
Your plan
Answer a few questions and we'll model your current path, an improved mortgage and the full strategy side by side — on your numbers, not an example.
Two minutes · no documents · no credit check

Rate reality check
Lenders price new borrowers more sharply than existing ones, so the longer you've held a loan without reviewing it, the wider the gap tends to be. Add your property value too — a lower loan-to-value ratio earns sharper pricing, so it changes what's realistically available to you.
Your loan-to-value ratio · 71% · Under 80%
You're in the band lenders compete hardest for, and no lender's mortgage insurance applies.
Compared with what competitive lenders are pricing today
0.50% – 0.75% higher
Keep your repayment of $4,123 a month and move to sharper pricing, and that's roughly 2.5 – 3.4 years off your loan.
Assumptions: 25 years remaining, your current repayment held rather than reduced, and the improvement modelled across the range above at your loan-to-value ratio. Estimates only — not a rate offer, and pricing depends on your full situation.
Rate is the easiest thing to compare, which is why it gets all the attention. These three things routinely move more money over the life of a loan than the discount you negotiate.
Resetting a loan with 22 years left back to 30 adds eight years of interest. Holding the term is worth more than most rate discounts on offer.
An offset account reduces the balance you're charged interest on every single day. Two months of expenses sitting in offset instead of savings quietly shortens the loan.
Every dollar freed up by a lower rate or a consolidation either disappears into spending or lands on the principal. That decision, repeated monthly, is the whole game.
Readiness check
Use this checklist to find out if you're ready. Most people who assume they can't refinance actually can — they just need a different lender. Tick what applies and see what it means before anyone looks at your credit file.
About your loan
About your income and history
Where you stand
Tick whatever applies to you and we'll tell you what it means.
Nothing here is a credit assessment. It's the same short list we run through in the first 15 minutes of a conversation, so you know what to expect before anyone touches your credit file.
Strategy first
A dollar-for-dollar refinance — same loan, sharper rate — is worthwhile, and for most households it's worth years off the mortgage on its own. But it is one lever.
The clients who have made the biggest inroads didn't get there by switching lenders alone. They got there by adopting the full MortgageSMART™ strategy: consolidating higher-rate debts, splitting and structuring the loan deliberately, running everyday cash through an offset account, redirecting every dollar of freed-up surplus back at the principal, and reviewing the whole thing every year rather than setting and forgetting it.
A refinance is the first step of that, and often the one that makes the rest possible. It just isn't the whole strategy, and we won't pretend it is.

The process
A refinance in Australia follows the same six steps whichever lender you end up with. Start to finish it usually takes four to six weeks, and most of that is the lender valuing the property and verifying income.
Find your rate, balance, remaining term and any annual package fee on your latest statement. The number that matters is the total cost to clear the debt over the years you have left — not the monthly repayment.
Estimate the property's value against the balance. At or under 80% you reach the sharpest pricing without lender's mortgage insurance. At the same time, take stock of income, other debts and dependants, because that decides how much a lender will let you carry.
Advertised rates and the rate you would be offered are different things, and every lender assesses income, self-employment and existing debts differently. Ask your current lender to reprice first — it is free and sometimes ends the exercise there.
One application, to the lender most likely to approve it. You will generally need photo ID, recent payslips or two years of tax returns if self-employed, current loan statements, a rates notice and a summary of other debts.
The new lender values the property — often automated rather than a physical inspection — verifies your income and issues formal approval, then loan documents to sign.
The new lender pays out the old loan, the old mortgage is discharged and the new one registered. Set the repayment back to what you were paying before, so the rate saving goes to the principal instead of a longer loan.
Timing
There is no waiting period before you can refinance in Australia, so the question is never whether you are allowed to, but whether the numbers justify it right now.
Questions
Refinancing means replacing your existing home loan with a new one — either with a different lender or by rewriting the loan with your current lender. The new loan pays out the old one, and you keep the property. Australians usually refinance to reduce the interest rate, consolidate higher-rate debts, release equity, or restructure the loan so it is paid off sooner.
In practice it is six steps: work out what your current loan is really costing you, check your equity and servicing position, compare what is available to you across lenders, apply to the one your position actually fits, let the new lender value the property and issue formal approval, then settle — the new loan discharges the old one and repayments start with the new lender. Most refinances take four to six weeks end to end, and the paperwork you provide is usually payslips or tax returns, ID, a rates notice and your current loan statements.
It depends entirely on the gap between your current rate and what is available to you, and on how the new loan is structured. As a guide, a 0.5% reduction on a $600,000 loan is roughly $250 a month in interest, and around $3,000 a year. Where a review saves considerably more is when the term is held rather than reset, and when higher-rate debts are brought into the same strategy. We put both figures in front of you before you decide anything.
There is no minimum waiting period in Australia — you can refinance at any time, including within the first year, as long as a lender will approve the new loan. The practical limits are equity (most lenders want the new loan at or under 80% of the property's value for the sharpest pricing), your ability to service the loan today, and a clean recent repayment history. If you are on a fixed rate, a break cost may apply until the fixed period ends.
It is usually worth it when your rate is 0.3% or more above what you could get, when you have higher-rate debts that could be brought into the mortgage, when your equity has improved enough to reach a better pricing tier, or when the loan structure no longer suits you. It is usually not worth it when the gap is small and your lender will match it, when a fixed-rate break cost swallows the saving, or when your income or credit situation has just changed and approval is unlikely right now. Ask your current lender to reprice first — that is free.
Yes, in two ways. A reprice simply lowers your rate on the existing loan and usually costs nothing — always ask for that first. An internal refinance rewrites the loan, so you can change the term, split it, add an offset or consolidate other debts without moving lenders. A reprice only changes the price; if the structure is the problem, the loan needs to be rewritten, and at that point it is worth comparing other lenders too.
It will if you let it. A refinance can be written as a new 30-year loan, which lowers the repayment and raises the total interest. We set the term to match what you have left, or shorter, and keep your repayment where it is so the rate saving goes to the principal rather than to a longer loan.
Expect a discharge fee from your outgoing lender (commonly $150–$400), government fees to discharge and register the mortgage (roughly $150–$400 depending on the state), and sometimes an application, valuation or settlement fee at the new lender ($0–$800). Together that is commonly a few hundred to around a thousand dollars, and many lenders waive or rebate parts of it. If your loan is partly fixed, a break cost may also apply. We get every figure in writing and only recommend the switch when the saving clearly outweighs it.
| Cost | Typical range | When it applies |
|---|---|---|
| Discharge fee (outgoing lender) | $150 – $400 | Charged by the lender you are leaving to release the mortgage. |
| Government discharge and registration | $150 – $400 | State land titles fees to remove the old mortgage and register the new one. |
| New lender application or settlement fee | $0 – $800 | Frequently waived, especially on package or promotional products. |
| Valuation | $0 – $600 | Usually paid by the lender, and often automated rather than a physical inspection. |
| Fixed-rate break cost | $0 – many thousands | Only if you exit a fixed period early. Ask your lender for the figure in writing. |
| Lender's mortgage insurance | $0 – thousands | Only if the new loan exceeds 80% of the property's value. Avoidable in most refinances. |
| Ongoing annual package fee | $0 – $395 per year | Worth counting on both sides — the fee you leave behind and the one you take on. |
Ranges are indicative only and vary by lender, loan type and state. Divide your total switching costs by your monthly saving to get your break-even point — under a year is common on a meaningful rate difference.
The first conversation takes about 15 to 20 minutes. From application, most lenders take roughly two to four weeks to reach formal approval, depending on how quickly a valuation can be completed and how straightforward the income evidence is. Discharging the old loan usually adds a couple of weeks on top, and we manage that end of it for you.
There is no legal limit, but refinancing every year rarely makes sense — each switch carries costs and a credit enquiry. The better rhythm is to review annually and only move when the numbers justify it. In most years the answer is either no change, or a repricing request to your existing lender, which is free and often effective.
You can, but you may face a break cost, which is the lender's estimate of what it loses by releasing you early. It can be trivial or it can be thousands, depending on how rates have moved since you fixed and how long you have left. We ask your lender for the figure in writing and weigh it against the saving before recommending anything. Where the break cost does not stack up, we plan the refinance for the end of the fixed period instead.
Usually yes, provided there is enough equity and the loan still fits within lender limits. The repayment relief is immediate because the debts move from rates near 12% to 20% down to a mortgage rate. The trap is stretching a five-year debt across 30 years. We only recommend it as part of a plan that redirects the freed-up cash flow back at the mortgage and closes the accounts behind you.
As a rule of thumb, lenders like to see the loan at 80% of the property's value or less, which avoids lender's mortgage insurance and opens up the sharpest pricing. Refinancing above 80% is possible but the options narrow and the cost rises. If you are not sure where you sit, an indicative valuation will tell us quickly.
Almost always, because the new lender needs to know the loan-to-value ratio it is lending against. It is often an automated or desktop valuation rather than a physical inspection, and the lender usually pays for it. Where a property has clearly grown in value, ordering the valuation early is the single fastest way to find out whether you have reached a better pricing tier.
Often yes, but lender policy varies enormously. Some want two years of tax returns, others will work from one year plus business activity statements, and a few will accept an accountant's declaration. If you have recently changed jobs, gone to one income, or started a business, the answer depends on which lender the application goes to — which is exactly the sort of thing worth checking before anyone touches your credit file.
A refinance application creates a credit enquiry, which has a small, short-lived effect. Multiple applications across several lenders in a short window do more damage, which is one reason to work through a broker: we assess your position against lender policy first and apply once, to the lender most likely to approve you.
Repricing with your existing lender usually costs nothing, and it is always worth asking before you move. The catch is that a reprice only changes the rate — it does not fix the term, the structure or the way your other debts are set up. Where a lender will match sharper pricing and the structure is already right, staying put is often the sensible answer.
No. We review your loan every year, and in most years the answer is either no change at all or a repricing request to your existing lender — which is free and often effective. Changing lenders is worth doing when the gap is large enough to clearly beat the switching costs, and we will tell you when that is the case rather than moving you for the sake of it.
It can help or hurt depending on how it is structured. Consolidating high-repayment consumer debts into the mortgage generally improves your assessed servicing, while stretching a loan back out to 30 years or adding a large cash-out can reduce future capacity. If a purchase is on the horizon, tell us early so the refinance is structured with that next step in mind.
Once a year. Lender pricing drifts, discounts you negotiated get quietly overtaken by what new customers are offered, and your equity position changes as the balance falls and the property value moves. An annual review takes minutes and is the difference between a loan that stays competitive and one that slowly costs you more each year.
Still deciding?
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In short
Refinancing a home loan means replacing your existing mortgage with a new one — with a different lender, or rewritten with your current one — to lower the interest rate, consolidate higher-rate debts, release equity or restructure the loan so it is paid off sooner.
In Australia there is no waiting period before you can refinance. Most lenders want the new loan at 80% of the property's value or less for their sharpest pricing, switching costs commonly total a few hundred to around a thousand dollars, and the whole process usually takes four to six weeks.
The catch is that a refinance can be written over a fresh 30-year term. That lowers the repayment and raises the total interest, so a lower rate on a longer term can cost more than the loan you left. Keeping your existing repayment and remaining term is what turns a rate cut into an actual saving.
For context, the RBA cash rate target is currently 4.35%, effective 6 May 2026 — see the full cash rate history.
Refinancing means replacing your existing home loan with a new one, either with your current lender or a different one. Australians usually do it to reduce their interest rate, consolidate higher-rate debts, release equity for a renovation or an investment, or restructure the loan so it is paid off sooner.
The part that gets missed is that a refinance is not just a price change — it is a chance to reset the whole structure. The rate matters, but so does the term you sign up to, whether you keep your existing repayment, whether your everyday cash sits in an offset account, and where any freed-up surplus goes. A sharper rate on a loan stretched back out to 30 years can cost more than the loan you left.
That is why we start with strategy. We look at the rate, the term, the structure and the other debts together, model the outcome before anything is applied for, and review it every year so the loan stays competitive rather than slowly drifting.
You can run the numbers yourself with our refinance savings calculator or the rest of our mortgage calculators, read how to pay your mortgage off faster or consolidate debt into your home loan, see what we’ve done for other clients in client results, or track rate movements on the RBA cash rate page.
Written and reviewed by Daniel Reid, mortgage broker and founder of Emanate Finance — WA’s Best Finance Broker 2026 and an Australian Broking Awards Innovator finalist. Emanate Financial Services Pty Ltd, ABN 18 614 396 208, Australian Credit Licence 498922. Member of the MFAA and AFCA.
Last reviewed 19 August 2026. General information only — it does not take your objectives, financial situation or needs into account.
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